May 3, 2013

Pizzatails

Good afternoon ladies and gentlemen and welcome to the Uborka Pop-Up Pizza Shop here at Casa Uborka: Pizzas Like Your Mama Never Made ‘Em. Your waitperson this afternoon is the laudable, laughable gender neutral Ubotka, as I am sidelined by an ankle injury, so will be sitting here with my Pizza Diavolo and a woeful expression. Keep the Margaritas coming, botkin, I’m in the mood for lots of tequila.

We’ve really enjoyed National Pizza Week, and are considering making it a monthly event, but with more alcohol. Massive thanks are due to our contributors, who have the top table this week: Krissa with her plain pie and Negroni on the rocks; unusually wide-awake Pix with her pizza bianca and fizz; and our oily friend Mike, with his calzone and odd-sounding dutch drink. We loved all your posts, and always welcome contributors to uborka. As we always say, the best content around here was written entirely by other people. Latecomer Stuart can join you, as I’m sure he was part of the whole pizza-making business, particularly at the point of arm-incineration. It is, as you say, just the day for a nice crisp white, whether that’s vino, pizza, or Krissa’s arm. And since Asta is drinking Negroni too, she can sit with Krissa.

We have a special sharing table for Anna, Sevitz and garlic-monster Graybo. You’ll notice the extra space we’ve left between their table and the others, because no amount of pineapple/chilli-based cocktail will cancel out the reek of anchovies, ugh ugh ugh. I’ll just take a moment here to mention Sevitz’ interview, which will be Tuesday’s must-read blog post, worldwide. Have another beer.

The tradition of the reprobates’ table, as established by Pix [Nov. 2010], is something we feel strongly impelled to continue, so it’s always nice when Lori, Lyle and Gordon put in an appearance. What happy coincidence that they have ordered unconventional poultry-based pizzas. Gordon, I believe I’ve also had a hoisin duck pizza, and it was so wrong, but very nice. That was at a bar in Bristol whose name I can’t bring to mind, but Pete can probably remember because he has the memory of a timelord.

Pete is your host this afternoon, though he will be spending most of his time bringing me more booze and resetting the bot when hu gets too cheeky. Have a marvellous long sunny weekend (those of you who don’t have to work on Monday, in particular), and we’ll be back next week with Amazing Posts! About Running! And an Interview with Sevitz! And more Easter Egg Reviews! Yay!

Karen
  • Comments: 9
  • Cold pizza for breakfast? - Clair
  • Am I late? - Doctor Pockless
  • Clair, we have plenty of the mango & anchovy pizza left, if you want some. - Karen
  • *hic* I LOVE YOU GUYYSSHHH. *hic* - Krissa
  • Damn. Too late for last orders. Will have to go and get takeaway from a kebab shop instead... - Clair

Are you ready to order?

I know it’s early but it’s going to take us a while to get everything set up. We have borrowed a four de pizza and set ubotka to kneading dough. We’re looking forward to a busy and colourful pizza party this afternoon, so do please place your orders alongside your cocktail requests.

Service will be a little later than usual owing to me actually having a client to visit this afternoon.

Karen
  • Comments: 14
  • Thin crust, goat's cheese, black olive, pesto and sun dried tomato please. Since the weat... - asta
  • It's sunny and wonderful outside so a simple white wine for me, a Sancerre for preference,... - Stuart
  • I'm going to be a total heathen and request a decent barbeque chicken pizza, please. No id... - Lyle
  • Can I have the same pizza as Gordon, but with a lychee martini... or two? :-) - Lori Smith
  • Once upon a time in a place that I can't recall, somewhere in Glasgow, I had the most deli... - Gordon
  • Comments: 6
  • Bernard informs me that the picture is the wrong way up. He also promised to save me a sli... - Karen
  • In no way, is that, less confusing. - Sevitz
  • That's the name of the pizza. - Karen
  • This Bernard/Conrad thing is still confusing me. - Sevitz
  • No, silly. It's a pizza fight. - Karen

Turkish Pizza in Amsterdam

I was in Amsterdam for Queens Day. This is basically an excuse for Dutch people to dress in orange and jump up and down all day to boshing Eurodance, on the streets and on the canals, couched in the pretext of monarchical patriotism.

Here are some orange people, jumping up and down to boshing Eurodance on a boat. There was a lot of this.

This was a special Queens Day, as it also featured the abdication of Queen Beatrix, monarch since 1980, in favour of her son Willem-Alexander. Dutch royals roll differently from our lot, and abdications are their usual way of doing things. At the last abdication, the outgoing Queen Juliana is supposed to have collapsed in sobs (or so I was told; can’t be arsed to fact-check), but no such dramas ensued this time round, at the really rather dull abdication ceremony. There was however a goodly amount of rapid blinking, suggestive of some sort of emotion, from the incoming King and his glamorous Argentinian consort Maxima, who had worked her way through three costume changes by teatime.

After the really rather dull abdication ceremony, there was an almost as dull inauguration ceremony, in which a crown was laid out for the new King, but never actually placed on his head. A humble bunch, your House of Orange. Prince Charles was in attendance, as he had been in 1980. He sees them come and he sees them go. How galling that must be.

My host for the long weekend was Alan, who some of you might remember as Reluctant Nomad. Alan gave up blogging in 2007, shortly after being voted South Africa’s best gay blogger, which was pretty good going for an ex-pat. Perhaps he felt his work was complete.

On the morning of Queens Day, we visited the newly re-opened Rijksmuseum, where we spotted this Dutch Renaissance dude checking his Twitter.

But I digress. You came here expecting a post about pizza, so let’s plough on.

“What would you like to do while you’re here?” Alan asked me on my first day. “There are several museums that we could…”

“I’d like to eat pizza. It’s for a very important commission.”

Alan suggested that we stretch the remit of National Pizza Week, by eating a Turkish pizza called Lahmacun. This is served in a restaurant called Bazar, on Albert Cuypstraat. The street also has a large open-air market, which might account for Bazar’s unusual architecture. Inside, it looked like an old corn exchange building: high-ceilinged, with an all-encompassing upstairs gallery that overlooked the ground floor.

Update: It’s actually a converted synagogue. My thanks to Alan for his research.

We sat upstairs, beneath an amazing tiled wall that stretched all the way up to the vaults. You’ll see a bit of this wall further down, but before you do, take a look at the wall on the opposite side.

Please note the following points of interest.

a) What does that inscription say? Is it in Hebrew? I’m not good with alphabets.

Update: Alan and Sevitz have confirmed that this is Hebrew. A literal translation: “Eating together is a friendship lubricant”. As Alan says:

I can only assume that it’s a recent addtion and not a remnant from the restaurant’s synagogue past.

b) What is that door for, way up at the top of the building, with its little balcony? Its function eluded us.

c) The illuminated green glass is actually the top of a massive dumb waiter, which connects the upper and lower kitchens. Again, its function was called into question, as all dishes were manually carried upstairs on gigantic metal platters.

My Lahmacun was listed on the “Lunch Dishes” section of the English menu and the “Small Dishes” section of the Dutch menu, so I ordered it as a starter. Any worries that I’d podge out before the main course were obliterated by the slow service, the forty-five minute gap between my Lahmacun and my Yogurtlu Adana giving me ample time to rebuild an appetite. Perhaps the staff had thoughtfully factored this in. Well, that’s the charitable explanation.

Here is my Lahmacun. I was going to order it with the optional extra of cheese, but forgot.

It doesn’t look much like a pizza, does it?

Once opened, its pizza-ness does become more apparent. Its closet cousin is probably the calzone, which is also served folded.

The filling consists of minced veal, which I wouldn’t normally order, but there were no alternative fillings. The yoghurt dip was an awkward presence, as it had too much of a cooling effect on the already lukewarm dish. I used it sparingly. Meanwhile, a side salad provided the sensation of cheese.

I’m no food critic, so suffice it to say that I enjoyed my Lahmacun. Look at the lovely tiles!

Afiyet olsun! (That’s “bon appetit” in Turkish.)

Mike
  • Comments: 13
  • Oh yes, that too! And, in the one or two I've been to, the steak wasn't that good either. ... - graybo
  • I can't say that I've noticed how ubiquitous Greek restaurants are here in the Netherlands... - Alan
  • This is why Uborka was created, I'm sure. Having eaten extensively in the Netherlands, ... - graybo
  • Brilliant! Thanks Mike! - Stuart
  • Mike, this was such a fantastic little sojourn into Turkey by way of Holland, thank you fo... - Krissa
May 1, 2013

Alt.pizza

Hello, My Name is Ann and I am a pizza freak.

Or at least, that’s what the prevailing opinion of the waiting staff at Pizza Express seems to be, any time I eat at one of their establishments.

Y’see, although I love pizza, I’m really not that mad keen about tomato sauce based pizzas, and so prefer to go off-piste a bit when it comes to applying stuff to dough.

I remember years ago, finding out about this concept of a white pizza, and being totally bumsquizzled, until I gave it a try and discovered that it was far superior. At which point the aforementioned establishment changed their menu and removed said wonderous items.

Curses.

Anyway.

Next time you’re doing a pizza, why not try one of the following saucy alternatives?

Garlic Butter
Needs no explanation, but has to be carefully doled out so as not to make the pizza so greasy the toppings slide right off when you tilt it to take it out of the oven.

Pesto
Red, green or a fancy alternative (did you know you can make broccoli pesto?), have at it.

Olive oil
Flavoured or not, the choice is yours. Garlic and chilli are my favourites.

Nothing at all
My personal opinion is that this is heresy, but if you have slightly moister toppings, or just want to enjoy the flavour of the toppings without any adulteration, go for your life.

And while we’re on the subject of alternatives, why not try adding a wee something to your dough?

Oregano/Italian Herbs are the most obvious addition here, added to taste.

How about some cheese in the dough? Some nice sharp parmesan would be lovely.

If you were feeling really brave, you could add some finely chopped garlic, shallots or other oniony type things, or even peppers, if you felt brave.

Last but not least, there’s the subject of condiments and garnishes…

I like to add a drizzle of balsamic vinegar to my pizza, as it’s about to be eaten. If that doesn’t float your boat, you could try some of that flavoured oil, some dried oregano or chilli flakes, fresh basil, parmesan or just a good old grind of black pepper.

Pizza. How will you eat yours?

Pix
  • Comments: 8
  • Oh - and wild garlic soup. Just make a vegetable stock base (celery, carrot, onion - you k... - graybo
  • Alternative pesto - made with wild garlic (a.k.a. ramsons). We have a good sized patch gro... - graybo
  • Our Pizza Express would probably be pretty chilled about it, as they seem to cope alright ... - Karen
  • I thought I'd explained the pizza express bit, and why they think I'm a freak, but apparen... - pixeldiva
  • YES. That is a date. - Karen
April 30, 2013

Pizza Brigouras

A slice of heaven

Unlike Casa Uborka, we residents of Casa Brigouras have not been making pizza for the better part of a decade. Like Bernard, though, we have certainly been eating it that long, and would also claim it as our very favorite food. (Well, the -ouras half of our clan makes that claim. The Brig- half may prefer kippers or something.)

As a New Yorker, you’re born with a very strong opinion about pizza. And if you happen to migrate here later in life, it’s part of the You’re A Local Now kit, which also includes the ability to say “heyyyy! I’M WALKIN HERE!” like you mean it.

After a decade of eating the best pizza in the whole entire world (if you’re wondering, my personal greats are Nick’s in Forest Hills and Lucali in Carroll Gardens tied for classic Neapolitan pie, La Villa in Park Slope for grandma pie on focaccia, and DiFara’s in Midwood for transcendent classic New York slice) I decided to try importing that excellence into my own kitchen. Here is that chronicle.
Continue reading

Krissa
  • Comments: 16
  • Pizza in the past is such a sad thought. - Karen
  • This all sounds delicious, and if I could choke down more than a single slice, I would con... - Simon
  • This is going to sound odd, but I feel like garlic and tomatoes and onion all might be con... - Stuart
  • See, I think they're just two different (delicious!) beasts. Do you cook your sauce at all... - Krissa
  • That sounds quicker and easier than my sauce, but I struggle with the idea of not adding o... - Karen

Uborka National Pizza Week Pizza

Karen calls this one the “Green & Blue” cos the toppings are green peppers and blue cheese. There’s mushroom on it too, but that’s grey so it has no overall effect upon the resultant colour spectrum. Please pardon the inferior picture quality – the camera on the Nexus 4 doesn’t perform very well indoors.

2013-04-29 19.46.53

Usually I don’t preheat the pizza stone for very long – about 15 minutes. For this one, I tried preheating it for half an hour, and I reduced the overall cooking time by 2 minutes. The result was a much crispier base. This is definitely going to be the new standard.

I asked her if, in honour of Uborka National Pizza Week, we could have pizza every single night. She said:

angry-no

Pete
April 29, 2013

Pizza Uborka

Here at Casa Uborka, we have been making pizza together for the best part of a decade. Pizza is Bernard’s favourite food without a doubt, and he glowed with pride when we told him about our holiday in Venice, when we ate pizza twice a day for a week.

2013-04-19 20.28.19 Over time we have refined the recipe, and now we regularly find ourselves nodding and congratulating each other on the best pizza ever. The pizza has three basic elements: the base, the sauce, and the topping. Here’s how it goes:

Base

Pete has always been the bassist, though this may change in the future. We have always bought a packet of pizza base mix (about 75p), mixed it up, and used it immediately. We have progressed from a standard pizza baking tray, to a tray with holes in, to a pizza stone. The stone has to be heated up in advance, but if the first thing you do is put the stone in the oven, that works just fine. The resulting crispiness fully justifies this refinement.

The latest development in house pizza-ing is actually to make the base from its individual ingredients. Here’s a recipe from Waitrose magazine, yes that issue with Pippa Middleton leering at you from the front cover.2013-04-14 13.11.33 If you follow those instructions exactly, it comes out lovely. This makes two bases, and if you freeze one, be sure not to mistake it for shortcrust pastry and defrost that by accident instead.

Sauce

pizza I’m the saucy one. While pizza recipes generally seem to think passata or even, heaven forfend, tomato puree are sufficient for the sauce, I prefer to whip up a little sauce using finely chopped onion (or shallots), garlic and tinned chopped tomatoes. If there’s any pesto in the fridge I usually throw some of that in as well. One tin of tomatoes makes enough sauce for two pizzas. Again, the excess can be frozen, or used in whatever you’re making tomorrow.

Topping

pizza_toppingWe take turns at topping. If Pete is allowed to do the mozarrella, he eats more than he really should, claiming that he is “making it even.” Back in the old days, we used to pile the pizza with all sorts of nonsense: peppers, sun dried tomatoes, spring onions, ham. But the classic Pizza Uborka is mushrooms and chorizo, with a light sprinkling of oregano. The only likely variation to this is if we have a bit of nice cheese to use up: goat’s cheese, halloumi, and roquefort have all put in an appearance.

The pizza goes in at 220 for 14 minutes, during which time you can relax with a glass of wine, flick through a magazine and wonder what Pippa Middleton can possibly know about preparing food, or check twitter.

Karen
  • Comments: 11
  • We have the stone extra heating time tonight, and true 'nuff, that was the crispiest pizza... - Karen
  • (personal taste thingy against sundried tomatoes out of the way now) the pizza looks glori... - Stuart
  • I dislike very few foods, but using sun-dried tomatoes must be like topping your pizza wit... - Stuart
  • Karen is putting the topping on now... - Pete
  • Oh YES, I have a blind spot with sun-dried tomatoes where I always forget how delicious th... - Krissa